Fashion has always been a powerful storytelling tool, and in Power Book III: Raising Kanan, it’s a character in its own right. Costume designer Tsigie White masterfully blends nostalgia with a fresh perspective, ensuring that each wardrobe choice reflects both the era and the dynamic evolution of its characters. As the show gears up for its highly anticipated fourth season, White opens up about her approach to capturing the rich visual identity of early ‘90s New York and how fashion helps drive the narrative forward.
Reimagining ‘90s Fashion for a Modern Audience
Her research was meticulous—pouring over archival street photography, vintage magazines, music videos and even personal family photo albums to capture the essence of the time. The influence of hip-hop is undeniable throughout the series, from bold prints and layered styling to statement accessories. But for White, it wasn’t just about recreating history; it was about making the past feel dynamic and visually engaging for today’s audience. “I played with color, fit and styling to balance nostalgia with a contemporary edge,” she said. “Every character’s look tells a story, reflecting their personality, status and evolution.”
Set against the backdrop of Queens in the early 1990s, Raising Kanan leans heavily on its wardrobe to transport viewers to the golden age of hip-hop fashion. White’s approach is rooted in authenticity. “The early ‘90s was such a rich time for fashion, especially in New York,” she explained. “I wanted the costumes to reflect the lived experiences of people from that era.”
The Evolution of Style as a Narrative Device
Character development in Raising Kanan isn’t just told through dialogue—it’s stitched into every outfit. Over the past three seasons, White has used fashion to chart the characters’ journeys. “In the beginning, Kanan’s style reflected his youth and innocence,” she noted. “But as he matures and gets deeper into the game, his look becomes more structured, his color palette darkens and his overall presence sharpens.” The shift in wardrobe mirrors the show’s themes of power, survival and ambition. As the stakes rise, the costumes take on a more somber tone, visually reinforcing the characters’ struggles and transformations.
Dressing the Icons: Raquel, Marvin and Jukebox
Each major character’s style is a reflection of their personal journey and the roles they play in Kanan’s world. For Raquel Thomas, the formidable matriarch at the center of the series, White took inspiration from the power dressing of the ‘90s. “I thought of her as a superhero villain,” she explained. “Her wardrobe is about dominance—sharp lines, leather, metal accents and tailored pieces that command attention.” Every look exudes confidence and authority, reinforcing Raquel’s ability to navigate a world where power is everything.
For Uncle Marvin, White wanted his fashion to feel deeply familiar. “Every Black family has an ‘Uncle Marvin,’” she said. “The way he walks, talks and dresses—it’s all intentional. I wanted viewers to see his character and instantly say, ‘I know this man.’”
Jukebox, on the other hand, uses fashion as a means of self-discovery. “In the early seasons, her wardrobe was about blending in. But as she starts to find her voice—both in music and in her identity—her style becomes more androgynous, more expressive.” Fashion becomes a tool of rebellion and authenticity for Jukebox, helping her carve out her own space in a world that often tries to confine her.
Drawing from Cultural Icons and Street Style
White’s influences for Raising Kanan are deeply rooted in hip-hop culture. “Artists like Big Daddy Kane, LL Cool J, Jodeci and Boyz II Men helped define the streetwear of the time,” she shared. The influence of classic films like Juice, New Jack City and Boyz n the Hood also played a key role in shaping the show’s aesthetic. “These films didn’t just capture the fashion—they captured the mood and storytelling behind the clothes,” she added.
Beyond pop culture, White turned to everyday people. Vintage street photography from New York in the ‘90s helped ground the costumes in authenticity. “Looking at real-life moments—how people actually dressed in Queens at the time—was crucial to making everything feel lived-in and true to the period.”
Challenges in Costume Design
Recreating the early ‘90s isn’t without its hurdles. “One of the biggest challenges was sourcing multiples,” White admitted. “There’s no store where you can just buy ‘90s clothing in bulk, so when a scene required four identical outfits, we had to recreate each piece from scratch.” Finding vintage pieces in the right sizes was another challenge. “Body types today are different from the early ‘90s. Vintage clothing often has smaller cuts, so we had to alter, tailor or remake garments to maintain both period accuracy and proper fit.”
Despite these challenges, White sees them as opportunities for creativity. “Every look in Raising Kanan is carefully crafted to ensure authenticity,” she said. “It’s all about bringing the past to life in a way that feels real and immersive.”
Season 4 and the Legacy of ‘90s Fashion
As the show continues to explore the complexities of family, power and ambition, White promises that Season 4 will deliver even more meticulously crafted costumes. “Because the storyline remains rooted in 1992, fans can expect the same attention to detail, bold choices and ‘90s realness they’ve come to love.”
And if there’s one fashion trend from the series that White would love to see make a comeback? “Leather sets,” she said with a smile. “They were everything back then, and they still are.”
Through her work on Raising Kanan, Tsigie White isn’t just curating nostalgia—she’s celebrating the cultural impact of ‘90s fashion while giving it a fresh new life on screen.
