Braids, they give effortless beauty, versatility and the ultimate convenience. No daily styling, no excess heat, no unnecessary breakage—just weeks of flawless, low-maintenance slay. But while braids have been a staple in Black culture for centuries, rocking them might come with more than just scalp tension and an occasional tight install. A new study suggests that the synthetic hair we use for braiding could be laced with harmful chemicals, raising concerns about its long-term health impact.
The Reality Behind Synthetic Braiding Hair
Braids are beloved for their accessibility. Whether you’re splurging on an intricate waist-length set or grabbing a few packs of synthetic hair from your local beauty supply, they’re seen as a protective style that keeps haircare simple. But what if that very protection is putting Black consumers at risk?
Chrystal Thomas, a medical student at Albert Einstein College of Medicine and the City University of New York, found herself asking that same question after a nightmare braiding experience. Thomas had synthetic hair installed using what she remembers as the popular Kanekalon brand. Almost immediately, she noticed something was off.
“I couldn’t sleep well, my throat felt irritated, and I had trouble focusing on any type of work because of the smell,” she recalled. Even after multiple washes, the scent lingered. Feeling miserable, she removed her braids after just a week and a half—far sooner than the typical four-to-six-week wear time.
Determined to get to the bottom of it, Thomas used her public health coursework to dig deeper. She published a commentary article highlighting the presence of carcinogenic materials in hair products specifically marketed to Black women. Turns out, her experience wasn’t just a one-off inconvenience—it could be part of a much larger, more dangerous issue.
The Science Speaks: Consumer Reports’ Eye-Opening Findings
Consumer Reports (CR) took a deep dive into the potential risks of synthetic braiding hair, testing 10 popular brands for harmful substances. The results? Alarming.
- Carcinogens, or chemicals linked to cancer, were found in 100% of the tested hair samples.
- Lead, a toxic heavy metal, was detected in nine out of ten products.
- Volatile organic compounds (VOCs), including acetone, were present in all samples.
Dr. James E. Rogers, CR’s director of product and food safety research and testing, led the investigation with a personal stake in the issue. “My two daughters wear braids often, and I have helped with purchasing the hair and the braid takedown many times over the years,” he shared. The CR team focused on three key questions: Were harmful chemicals present? How much of them were detected? And what potential risks do they pose to consumers?
A Billion-Dollar Industry with Few Safety Regulations
The Black hair industry is booming. In 2023, the U.S. market for hair wigs and extensions was valued at $2.79 billion, with projections reaching $6.34 billion by 2029. Black consumers are at the heart of this growth, yet regulations around the safety of synthetic braiding hair remain scarce.
“What makes synthetic braiding hair unique is the extended exposure time,” Thomas explained. “Unlike a wig that you might remove at the end of the day, synthetic braids are worn for weeks at a time. That means users are constantly in contact with these chemicals.”
What’s Next? Protecting Our Hair and Health
So, what can you do if braids are a part of your go-to hair routine? Here are a few steps to minimize potential risks:
- Rinse Before You Install: Soaking synthetic hair in a vinegar and water mix before braiding can help remove some chemical residues.
- Opt for Human Hair Alternatives: While pricier, human hair extensions eliminate the risk of synthetic chemical exposure.
- Support Transparency: Push for brands to disclose ingredients and advocate for better industry regulations.
- Pay Attention to Your Body: If you experience irritation, headaches or respiratory issues after getting braids, take them down immediately.
This Is Not a Scare Tactic—It’s a Courtesy
Listen, we know braids aren’t going anywhere, and neither is our love for them. Like perms, everyone is going to do what they want with their hair, and we respect that. EBONY is simply here to provide the facts so you can make informed decisions about what’s going on your scalp. The last thing we want is to police how Black folks choose to wear their hair. But what we do want is for our community to have access to safe, high-quality products that don’t come at the cost of our health.
As we continue to celebrate and reclaim our beauty, we also need to demand better from the brands profiting from us. Our crowns deserve nothing less than the safest, highest-quality options out there. Period.
